Technical File Sign Off Sheet

Status - Complete

Technical Evaluation

I haven't really enjoyed the technical side of this unit at all, I struggled in many aspects of it as special effects make-up is 100% not the area of makeup that I want to go into. The parts that I have enjoyed is learning new techniques and also using new products that I feel I could transfer over into fashion makeup, for example I am really excited about using coloured teeth enamel in fashion shoots, and also fullers earth and colouring it with kyrolan hairsprays, this creates beautiful textures so I am very pleased I have more knowledge about products that normally wouldn't be used in fashion work. I think one of my main struggles during this unit was that I was very heavy handed with my application of colour, so I really struggled with making the makeup look realistic and it often looked 'theatrical' and not suitable for HD.

Consultation Notes (All Models)

Ellie Nevil

Name : Ellie Nevill
Age : 19
Hair Type, Colour, Natural or Dyed :
Thick, Brunette, Dyed.
Skin Type:
Normal
Skin Tone:
Yellow
Eye Colour/ Shape :
Green, Almond
Allergies/ Medication:
None
Contraindication:
None
Notes:
Dryness in winter

Beth Haile 

Name : Beth Haile
Age : 18
Hair Type, Colour, Natural or Dyed :
Thick, Blonde, Dyed.
Skin Type:
Combination
Skin Tone:
Yellow
Eye Colour/ Shape :
Green, Almond.
Allergies/ Medication:
None
Contraindication:
Sensitive skin.
Notes:
Oily T Zone, whereas the rest is dry.

Charli Roth

Name : Charli Roth
Age : 18
Hair Type, Colour, Natural or Dyed :
Thick, Brunette, Dyed.
Skin Type:
Combination
Skin Tone:
Yellow
Eye Colour/ Shape :
Brown, Almond.
Allergies/ Medication:
None
Contraindication:
None
Notes:
Dryness around cheeks


Kimmy Teasdale

Name : Kimmy Teasdale
Age : 20
Hair Type, Colour, Natural or Dyed :
Thin, Black, Dyed.
Skin Type:
Normal
Skin Tone:
Yellow
Eye Colour/ Shape :
Blue, Almond
Allergies/ Medication:
None
Contraindication:
Acne prone skin
Notes:
Acne Prone skin

Naomi Salvage 

Name : Naomi Salvage
Age : 19
Hair Type, Colour, Natural or Dyed :
Thick, Long, Straight, Natural.
Skin Type:
Normal
Skin Tone:
Neutral to Yellow
Eye Colour/ Shape :
Brown, Almond
Allergies/ Medication:
None
Contraindication:
Eczema on the back of neck near scalp.
Notes:
None.

Light Scars Using Moulds.

Products

• Pre-made gelatine piece
• Supracolour
• Wound filler
• Prosade
• Translucent Powder
• Witch Hazel
• Cotton buds
• Pro Clean remover.

Procedure

• Cut the piece down so to remove any of the thick hard edges and excess gelatine.
• Apply prosade to the area that the piece is going to be applied and also to the back of the piece.
• Allow glue to go clear and tacky an apply piece making sure there is no air bubbles.
• Blend the edges with a cotton bud dipped in witch hazel.
• Powder the gelatine.
• Colour the piece, mixing colour with alcohol or moisturiser to thin it down.
• Remove with pro clean.

Health and Safety

• Make sure the model is comfortable with having gelatine used on them.
• Use in an open space.
• Make sure the model does a patch test for prosade.

Evaluation

These two images show the gelatine piece applied and also after it had been took off. I am really disappointed with how this went because I believe it could have looked a lot better, I only managed to blend away one side as the others were too thick and I also think my colouring is poor, as when I was applying the colour it was sliding straight off the gelatine. To improve this in the future I think I would have tried melting down the edges of the gelatine to make it thinner before applying it to the model then blend it with witch hazel. 

Side by Side Comparison & Evaluation

Front (A & B)

Sides (A & B)

 Back (A & B)

These are my front, back and side shots from my continuity assessments. As you can see from the images I have had a slight problem with the white balance of the camera, all the images from the first assessment are very light in comparison to those from the second assessment, these are really dark and warm which has made the reds in the image look really vivid, I don't think that this translates to how my make-up looked in real life, so I want to have a play around with the white balance on bridge to try and get a more accurate reading of the colour, but I will do this in another post. I am really pleased at how well I kept the continuity in the images, I feel that they look really similar and that I have got the tones correct, however I think in the second assessment the contour and the red on the lips and cheeks looks slightly darker than in the first image, the skin tone also looks a lot warmer, but I do think this is down to the white balance of the camera. The area that I feel lacks continuity is the hair, in the first image the centre parting bends off to the right and the second to the left, this is something I could have avoided if I was a little bit more careful, and as you can see in the back facing images, the hair is a lot more textured from the second assessment, this was because I used different hair straighteners and my sections were probably off too, changing my tools is something I shouldn't have done and I will keep this in mind for the future. Overall, I am very happy with the makeup, I think I kept the continuity really well, and that is is suitable for HD, but I think my hair lets me down a lot and I need to pay a lot more attention to this aspect of my design in the future.

Products/ Materials Used Throughout Unit

• Supra colour Palette
• Loose Powder
• Bruise Wheel
• Kryolan Coloured Hairsprays
• Glycerine 
• Blood
• Wound Filler 
• Pus
• Fullers Earth
• Tuplast
• Wax
• Gelatine
• Latex
• Prosade
• Tooth Enamel
• Old Age Stipple

Makeup Designs

 Design 1


This is my first design that I created for my character Carmilla. I designed this makeup for the duration of the film, so this is pretty much just a straight Victorian makeup to help enhance her features and make her look beautiful. The skin is pale and porcelain with flushed cheeks, full brows, dark lashes, bitten lips and a slight bit of definition in the cheekbones and crease of the eye. I really like this design, but for my assessment I would like to do something a little bit more challenging, and I don't think this conveys the character of Carmilla enough.

Design 2

To make my design more interesting I started looking at the final chapter of the book, where she is executed in her tomb. I thought about how she would look in this scene and decided that I wanted to make something a little bit shocking and over the top. By tracing the natural bone structure of the face I wanted to make the face look emaciated and ill, paired with dry chapped lips and also sweat. This would shock the viewer because it would be completely different to how beautiful she would be during the day. However when trying this design, it was hard to make it good for HD, I think this design is a little bit too theatrical.

Design 3

For my third design I started to think about how I could keep most of the characteristics of the first design and convey the character subtly. I did this by making the eyes more feline like, I will subtly wing out the outer corner of the eye, this will be a subtle nod towards the cat like form she takes at night, and also I will use a red eyeliner or eyeshadow to blend red onto the lower lash line, this will convey lack of sleep. I also want this design to have chapped lips but with red bitten lips over the top, to show the thirst she has for blood.

To help me get the best idea of how I want my character to look I will try these designs out on a model, and then will choose the makeup that will be most suitable for my assessment.





Dirt and Dirty Teeth (Technical File)

Products

• Tooth Enamel
• Fullers Earth
• Hair dryer
• Aqua Colour
• Surgical Spirit
• Kryolan Colour Hairspray

Health and Safety

• Make sure your model doesn't breathe when spraying the colour onto face.
• Make sure all your brushes and products are clean.
• Make sure the model is covered over at all times.
• Tip out products to avoid cross contamination.

Procedure (Fullers Earth)

• Make sure the skin is moisturised
• Mix the fullers earth with water and make it as thick or thin consistency as you need.
• Can scrape aqua colour in at this time to make it a different colour.
• Apply to the area with your hand.
• Dry with a warm hairdryer.
• Use coloured hairsprays to build up colour.

Procedure (Tooth Enamel)

• Shake the bottle of enamel and pour out onto a palette.
• Wipe down the surface of the tooth which you want to work on.
• Apply the enamel to the tooth with a baby bud.
• Wait for the enamel to dry before letting the model close their mouth.
• To remove get some surgical spirit on a baby bud and wipe away the enamel.

Procedure (Dirtying Down)

• To dirty down mix up different browns and rub these into the hands or face.
• If you need the Supracolour to be thinner mix with alcohol or moisturiser.
• Make sure to apply under the nails as this is a place that always gets dirty.

Reflection

I have never worked with tooth enamel and fullers earth before so this lesson was really interesting for me. I have touched on dirtying down so I skimmed over this but, as you can see from the picture I have rushed this part of the makeup so it isn't as strong as I want it to be, I could have spent a little bit more time and applied the colour into the creases of the knuckles and also under and around the nail and it would look a lot better.

I am quite pleased with the application of the tooth enamel, however I don't really like just the black as I think this looks a bit theatrical, this is good for blocking out the teeth to look like they are missing, I think the mix of the tobacco and black looks most realistic. If I was to do this again I would use a small brush to get into the cracks of the teeth as this is where most of the dirt that would collect on the teeth if they decayed.

I'm not too sure about my application of fullers earth, when using the coloured hairsprays to make it look like dirt I think it made it look false and I don't think it would be suitable for HD, I think next time I use it I would scrape aqua colour into the mix. I had some problems with this fullers earth too as when the model used her hand the earth would crack more and flake off, so I don't think this would be very good for film when someone is moving about. I really did like the patterns that the fullers earth made when it dried, and I do think this is something I would want to have in my kit for fashion work, as I think it is a really interesting product to use.

Sweat, Fever, Pallor and Tears (Technical File)

Products

• Supracolour
• Latex
• Moisturiser
• Blood
• Glycerine
• Bruise Wheel
• Alcohol
• Stipple Sponge
• Palette knife

Health and Safety

• Always patch test the model before using liquid latex
• Make sure to use liquid latex in a well ventilated room
• Keep eyes closed when applying latex to the face.
• Keep glycerine away from the eyes
• Make sure the model is covered over at all times.

Procedure (Fever)

• Using Supracolour palette mix some of the red shades with moisturiser to thin them out.
• Layer the shades to build up a rash like appearance.
• Could mix the colours with alcohol and flick onto the skin with a large artists brush. (When doing this always make sure that the models eyes are closed)

Procedure (Sweat)

• Apply the glycerine to the face with a stipple sponge.
• Stipple product onto the parts of the face that you usually perspire (fore head, nose, upper lip.)
• Spray water into the hairline to add to the effect.

Procedure (Chapped Lips)

• Get the model to pucker their lips and apply a layer of latex whilst they are puckered.
• Allow to dry and apply more if needed.
• Use fingers or a small pin carefully to peel bits away to create a further chapped look.
• Powder so the lips don't stick together.

Reflection - Sweat, Pallour and Fever

I am not too pleased with how this makeup went, I feel like for the fever part the areas of the face could be a lot better positioned, the red on the face to me looks a lot more like sunburn rather than fever, to achieve this I would need to use more moisturiser to sheer down the red, and also not to apply it as liberally, I could also use IPA to sheer down the red but I would have to make sure my models eyes were shut before doing this. I really enjoyed applying the glycerine to the face, however the way I have done it I believe looks a little bit too theatrical, if I was to do this again I need to stand behind  my model and apply this and whilst doing this keep looking in the mirror, this is because you can see a clear line where I went across and applied it. I could have also used a lighter hand when applying.  The part I think went the best was pallour, as I sheered down white supracolour with moisturiser and applied it to the face and this gave me the sheer gaunt look I was after. 

Reflection - Tears

I dripped some glycerine from the eye to make it look like tears but again this was far too theatrical, It would look good for fashion makeup but not for TV/ Film, on reflection it would be a lot better to use a tear stick, as actual tears would be a lot better, and the eye would get slightly red and irritated.

Reflection - Chapped lips

I also really struggled with creating chapped lips because I did not have a utensil to pick up the latex to get the flaps of skin, instead when I rubbed it I got holes that looked unnatural, I also tried to colour with a little bit of supracolour and blood, but I could not make it look realistic. If I was to do these chapped lips again I would deffinately think about building up the layers before I started distressing the latex.

Gelatine Burns

Products

• Supracolour palette
• Powder
• Brushes
• Gelatine
• Hairdryer
• Witch Hazel
• Moisturiser

Procedure

• Melt a nugget of gelatine in the microwave, this usually takes about 20 seconds, check every once in a while to make sure it does not boil.
• Can colour the gelatine at this stage if you need too.
• Test the gelatine on yourself before applying it to the model to make sure it isn't too hot.
• Apply the gelatine and blend away the edges, this works best using a metal palette knife.
• Create holes in the gelatine and texture.
• Set with a cool hairdryer.
• Get a baby bud and witch hazel and blend away the edges.
• Dab powder onto the gelatine with a powder puff.
• Use Supracolour to colour and mix it with moisturiser to get a sheer effect.

Health and Safety

• Always cover model over.
• Test gelatine on yourself before the model to make sure it is not too hot.

For my gelatine burns I decided to try and make blisters, I am moderately happy with the result, although the blisters aren't quite the right shape, the could have been a lot smoother as this would make them look more realistic, I also feel like it would look a lot better if I applied a deeper red around the blisters this would give them more dimension. However I think the colouring of the red looks like irritated skin rather than just painted on so it would be good for HD. I created this burn as like a scald burn from hot liquids falling onto the hand, I am pleased with this as a first attempt but I do believe it could be a lot better.

Cuts, Scars and The Perfect Black Eye (Technical)

Products

• Cine-wax or moulding wax.
• Latex
• Sealer
• Black stipple sponges.
• Wound filler.
• Cuts wheel and Bruise wheel.
• Supracolour palette.
• Non flexible collidon.
• Puss
• Tuplast
• Vaseline
• Barrier Cream
• Hair dryer.
• Palette and palette knife.
• Acetone.
• Brushes

Procedure (CUT WAX)

• Warm up wax on back of the hand.
• Apply to skin and blend away the edges with palette knife, use moisturiser to make this easier.
• Create cut/ incision in the wax.
• Cover with latex or sealer to keep this in place.
• Dry with cool hairdryer.
• Stipple on colour, thin this down with alcohol or moisturiser to create a wash.
• Fill the cut with wound filler and blood.
• Use a stipple sponge or pin to create grazes.

Procedure (SCAR)

•  Use barrier cream
• Apply collidon or tuplast to the skin
• hold skin in the scar formation whilst it dries.

Procedure (BLACK EYE)

• Always work from reference material
• Usually heavier in corner and then blend it out
• Mix the colours with moisturiser to make a thinner colour.
• Apply slowly and build it up.
• Add Vaseline on top to make it shiny.

**Health and Safety**

• Make sure you do a patch test when using latex.
• Make sure you are working in a well ventilated room.
• When applying products near eye make sure the eyes are closed and remain closed until the application is finished.
• Cover the models clothing.
• Don't use alcohol near the eye.

Reflection - Black Eye

really struggled creating my black eye, I worked from a reference picture but I found it hard to find one that I liked, after deciding on one I went in with my supracolour palette and mixed this with moisturiser to thin it down,  this was really hard to work with as I didn’t  thin it down enough, and the product slid around the face, on reflection my black eye looks more like a smudge of colour than a black eye, and 
this would not be suitable for HD. 



Reflection - Cuts (Using Wax) 


This cut I have created using wax is probably one of my most successful technical lessons I've had, I really enjoyed sculpting the wax to make it blend into the skin, however on reflection I have realised that it isn't as seamless as I thought, It could do with a lot more blending round the edges and I could have possibly used a sharper tool like a metal spatula to help blend it easier. I found it really difficult to colour as I found that when applying the colour bits of the latex came up which I had used to seal the wax onto the skin so this was really frustrating. I also think I could of benefited from a bit more colouring around the wound. 

Aging Makeup (Technical)

Products

• Liquid Latex
• Kryolan Old Age Stipple
• Acetone
• Barrier Creams
• Supra Colour Palette
• Hairdryer
• Stipple Sponge
• Brushes

Precautions/ Health and Safety

• Use products in a  well ventilated room.
• Make sure the eyes are closed when applying latex or acetone near eyes.
• Always do an allergy test.
• Apply barrier cream.
• Put the lid back on after using products.
• Be careful with clothes, cover your model over.

Procedure Latex

• Pour the latex in a pot and let it breathe for a bit.
• Cleanse and tone the skin and then apply barrier cream.
• Get the model to close their eyes and hold the skin taught where you are going to apply the latex.
• Stipple the latex onto the skin.
• Dry this with the hairdryer on cool, feel against throat to check temperature.
• Dry until clear.
• Ease the latex with your fingers to create the wrinkles.
• To soften edges soak a baby bud in acetone and rub them away.
• Powder the latex to finish.

Procedure Old Age Stipple

• Cleanse and tone the skin and apply barrier cream.
• Shake the old age stipple before pouring it out.
• Stretch the skin.
• Dry with hairdryer in the same was as the latex.
• Rub the stipple for dry skin.
• You can loosely powder between layers.
• Then colour the old age stipple with Supracolour, make sure to look at all tones in the skin for an even application.

For my latex aging I only layered 1-2 layers onto the skin because I wanted it to create natural definition rather than full blown wrinkles, as you can see in the right picture I had some difficulty with the latex, this was because I was using a stippling sponge that had started to dry and this started pulling up the latex underneath. However I got some acetone and dissolved these problems away andi think this made it look realty subtle and effective (perfect for HD). I am really pleased with the effect I achieved on the hand as it was the most realistic looking.